One whiff is all it takes to never forget it. Warm, woody, slightly smoky, sometimes almost animalic, oud is one of the most fascinating materials in perfumery. Long reserved for the Middle East and Asia, it is now at the heart of many modern fragrances. But where does it really come from, and why is it so highly sought after?
A material born from a wound
Oud, also known as agarwood, comes mainly from trees of the Aquilaria genus, native to South and Southeast Asia. In their normal state, their wood is light and almost odorless.
Everything changes when the tree is wounded or attacked by certain fungi. To defend itself, it produces a dark and highly fragrant resin that gradually permeates its wood. It is this resin-laden wood that is called oud. Once distilled, it yields a precious oil, used in perfumery for centuries.
Why is oud so precious?
Not all trees produce this resin, and its natural formation can take years. Added to this is its rarity: wild Aquilaria trees have been so exploited that their trade is now regulated by the international CITES convention, which protects endangered species.
As a result, quality natural oud oil is among the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. This is why most modern fragrances use oud accords recreated by perfumers, sometimes enriched with a portion of natural oud.
What does oud smell like?
Oud does not smell like wood in the usual sense of the term. Depending on its origin and quality, it can be woody and resinous, sweet and almost honeyed, smoky, earthy, or slightly leathery. It is this complexity that makes it so difficult to describe, and so appreciated by connoisseurs.
In perfumery, it is often paired with rose, saffron, amber, or patchouli, which soften its character and give it depth.
A tradition of hospitality
In the Gulf countries, oud is much more than a fragrance. It is burned in the form of chips or bakhour to perfume the home, clothes, and hair, especially when receiving guests. Offering the fragrance of oud to one's hosts is a sign of respect and generosity.
Where to start?
If you are discovering oud, start with a fragrance where it is accompanied by more familiar notes. Blue Sapphire Privée, for example, pairs it with rose, jasmine, and amber for a rich but accessible result.
And to go further, our article Natural oud or synthetic oud explains what is really hidden in your bottle.